Owner's manual
Operation and maintenance
Teddy spring and torsion trailer axles, with grease or oil-bath hubs and electric or hydraulic drum brakes.
Read this first
This manual is for the person who tows and looks after the trailer. It covers what to check before a trip, how to keep the wheels, bearings, brakes and suspension in good order, and when the work belongs in a shop. Keep it with the trailer and pass it on if the trailer is sold.
The procedures here need ordinary hand tools, a torque wrench and a grease gun. Anything that means taking a hub off the spindle is covered in the Service Manual.
What the signal words mean
A hazard that can cause death or serious injury if you ignore it.
A hazard that can cause a minor injury if you ignore it.
A practice that can damage the axle, the trailer or the load.
The rules that matter most
- Never load an axle past the capacity on its label. The lowest-rated part in the system (axle, springs, wheels or tires) sets the limit.
- Wheel nuts that are loose or over-tightened can let a wheel come off. Torque them in stages, in sequence, and check them again after the first miles.
- Never go under a trailer held up only by a jack. Lift on the frame and set it on stands rated for the weight. Do not lift or support the trailer on the axle beam, the torsion housing or any suspension part.
- Test the brakes and the breakaway system before every trip. Brakes that are out of adjustment, contaminated or not wired correctly will not stop the trailer.
- Do not weld on the axle, and do not heat it. Heat weakens the steel and destroys the rubber in a torsion axle.
Know your axle
The label
Every Teddy axle carries a label on the beam or housing, facing the rear of the trailer. It gives the capacity, the hub face dimension, the spring center or outside-of-bracket dimension, and the build information. Have those numbers ready when you call about parts or service.
Spring or torsion
Spring axles hang from the frame on leaf springs. The springs carry the load, and hangers, shackles and (on tandems) equalizers connect them to the frame. These are wear parts and can be replaced one at a time.
Torsion axles bolt to the frame through their brackets. Rubber cords inside the housing do the springing, and each wheel moves on its own forged arm. There is nothing to grease or adjust in the suspension itself.
To see how either one goes together, open the 3D teardown on the home page.
How the hubs are lubricated
| What you see on the hub | Type | What it needs |
|---|---|---|
| Metal grease cap with a rubber plug in the center | Grease, through the spindle (the EZ option on the order form) | Grease through the fitting behind the plug, and a full repack on schedule |
| Clear or threaded cap with a fill plug and a level line | Oil bath | Oil kept at the level line and changed on schedule |
Which brakes you have
| On the order | What it is | Adjustment |
|---|---|---|
| Idler | Hub only, no brake | None |
| Electric, manual adjust | Electric drum brake with a star wheel adjuster | By hand, on schedule |
| Electric, self adjusting | Electric drum brake that takes up lining wear on its own | Inspect only |
| Hydraulic, manual adjust | Hydraulic drum brake worked by a surge or electric-over-hydraulic actuator | By hand, on schedule |
| Hydraulic, free backing | Hydraulic drum brake that releases when the trailer is backed up | By hand, on schedule |
Before the first trip
Do these on a new trailer, and again any time a wheel or hub has been off.
- Torque the wheel nuts in three stages using the sequence in Wheels and tires.
- Set the tire pressure cold, to the pressure on the tire or the trailer's tire placard.
- Check the brakes. With the trailer hitched and plugged in, move forward slowly and apply the trailer brakes alone from the controller. You should feel the trailer pull back evenly.
- Test the breakaway system. Pull the breakaway pin and try to move the trailer. The brakes should hold. Put the pin back straight away so the battery is not drained.
- Burnish new brakes. New linings need to bed in before they give full braking. Make 20 to 30 stops from about 40 mph down to 20 mph using the trailer brakes, with time between stops for the drums to cool.
- Re-torque the wheel nuts after the first 10, 25 and 50 miles.
- After the first 200 miles, adjust manual-adjust brakes and check the U-bolt and suspension fasteners. The linings and drums have seated by then.
Before every trip
- Tires at the correct cold pressure, with no cuts, bulges or cords showing
- Wheel nuts all present and tight
- No grease or oil on the inside of a wheel or tire (a sign of a leaking seal)
- Grease caps or oil caps in place; oil at the level line on oil-bath hubs
- Trailer brakes apply and release; breakaway battery charged and cable attached to the tow vehicle
- Springs, hangers, shackles and U-bolts in place, with nothing cracked, bent or loose
- On torsion axles, both sides of the trailer sitting at the same height
- Load inside the capacity on the axle label and spread evenly side to side
Wheels and tires
Tightening the wheel nuts
- Make sure the wheel, the studs and the hub face are clean and dry. Do not put oil or grease on the threads unless the wheel maker tells you to.
- Start every nut by hand so none is cross-threaded.
- Tighten in the sequence shown for your bolt count, in three stages. Bring every nut to the first stage before starting the second.
- Check the torque again after 10, 25 and 50 miles, and after any time the wheel has been off.
| Wheel and studs | Stage 1 | Stage 2 | Stage 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 and 13 in wheels, 1/2 in studs | 20 to 25 ft-lb | 35 to 40 ft-lb | 60 to 75 ft-lb |
| 14 to 16.5 in wheels, 1/2 in studs | 20 to 25 ft-lb | 50 to 60 ft-lb | 100 to 120 ft-lb |
| 16 and 16.5 in wheels, 9/16 in studs | 20 to 25 ft-lb | 50 to 60 ft-lb | 140 to 170 ft-lb |
| 16.5 x 9.75 in hub-piloted wheel, 5/8 in studs, 90° cone nuts | 50 to 60 ft-lb | 120 to 125 ft-lb | 175 to 225 ft-lb |
| 17.5 in hub-piloted wheel, 5/8 in studs, clamp ring and 90° cone nuts on greased threads | 50 to 60 ft-lb | 100 to 120 ft-lb | 190 to 210 ft-lb |
| 17.5 in hub-piloted wheel, 5/8 in studs, flange nuts | 50 to 60 ft-lb | 90 to 200 ft-lb | 275 to 325 ft-lb |
| 17.5 in hub-piloted wheel, 5/8 in studs, swivel flange nuts | 50 to 60 ft-lb | 60 to 110 ft-lb | 150 to 175 ft-lb |
Find your wheel in the table by its size, stud size and nut style. Use the nut style the wheel was made for: a cone nut on a wheel made for flange nuts will not hold. Aluminum wheels and wheels not listed here follow the wheel maker's torque.
Reading tire wear
| What you see | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Worn in the center | Too much pressure | Set pressure to the load |
| Worn on both edges | Too little pressure | Set pressure to the load; check for a slow leak |
| Worn on one edge | Overloading, or the axle is bent or out of camber | Weigh the trailer; have the axle checked |
| Feathered across the tread | Axle not square to the trailer | Have the alignment measured |
| Cupped or scalloped | Wheel out of balance or loose wheel bearings | Balance the wheel; check bearing adjustment |
| Flat spots | A wheel locking under braking | Adjust the brakes and the controller |
Wheel bearings
Each hub turns on two tapered roller bearings. They last a very long time when they have clean lubricant and the right adjustment, and fail quickly when they don't.
Greasing through the spindle
Hubs with the rubber plug in the cap can be greased without taking them apart.
- Pull the rubber plug out of the center of the grease cap.
- Put a standard grease gun on the fitting in the end of the spindle.
- Pump slowly while turning the hub by hand. Grease travels through the spindle to the inner bearing and pushes the old grease forward through the outer bearing.
- Stop when fresh grease shows at the front of the hub. Wipe off the excess and push the plug back in.
Use a hand grease gun, not air pressure, and pump slowly. Forcing grease in fast can push it past the rear seal and onto the brake linings.
| Grease | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Type | Lithium complex, NLGI No. 2, with extreme-pressure additives |
| Dropping point | 419 °F (215 °C) or higher |
| Mixing | Do not mix grease types. If you can't tell what is in the hub, clean it out and start fresh. |
Oil-bath hubs
Check the oil level before each trip. It should sit at the line on the cap with the trailer level. Top up through the fill plug with SAE 80W-90 hypoid gear oil, and have the oil changed every 12 months or 12,000 miles. Oil that looks milky has water in it and should be changed straight away.
When the hubs need to come apart
Greasing through the spindle does not replace inspection. Every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first, the hubs should come off so the bearings, races and seal can be cleaned and looked at. Trailers that go through water often need it sooner.
Signs of trouble
- A hub noticeably hotter than the others after a run
- Grinding or rumbling when the wheel is spun by hand
- The wheel rocks when you push and pull at the top of the tire
- Grease or oil on the inside of the wheel
Any one of these means stop and have the hub serviced.
Brakes
How electric brakes work
When you brake, the controller in the tow vehicle sends current to a magnet in each trailer brake. The magnet grabs the turning face of the drum and is dragged around with it, which pulls a lever that spreads the shoes against the drum. More current means more grip, so the controller setting decides how hard the trailer brakes.
Setting the controller
The trailer brakes should do their share without locking. With the trailer loaded as you intend to tow it, drive at about 20 mph on a dry, level surface and apply the trailer brakes with the controller's manual lever. Raise the gain until the wheels are just short of locking. Reset it when the load changes a lot or the road is wet or icy. Follow the controller maker's instructions for the details.
Adjusting manual-adjust brakes
Adjust after the first 200 miles, then every 3,000 miles, or sooner if braking falls off. Self-adjusting brakes do this on their own.
- Lift the trailer on the frame and set it on stands so the wheel turns freely.
- Pull the rubber plug from the adjusting slot at the bottom of the backing plate.
- With a brake adjusting tool, turn the star wheel to spread the shoes until the wheel is hard to turn by hand.
- Turn the star wheel back the other way until the wheel turns freely with a light drag from the linings.
- Put the plug back, lower the trailer and repeat on every brake. All the brakes should be set the same.
Hydraulic brakes
Hydraulic brakes are applied by fluid pressure from a surge coupler or an electric-over-hydraulic unit. Keep the master cylinder filled with the fluid named on its cap, look over the lines and hoses for leaks, cracks and rubbing, and adjust manual-adjust brakes on the same schedule as electric ones. Free-backing brakes release on their own when the trailer is reversed, so no lockout is needed to back up.
Looking after the brakes
Have the brakes opened and inspected at least once a year. Linings should be replaced when they are worn to 1/16 inch or less, or when they are cracked or have grease or oil on them. Replace shoes and magnets on both sides of an axle at the same time so the braking stays even.
Brake dust can be harmful to breathe. Do not blow it off with compressed air or dry-brush it. Wipe parts down with a damp cloth or use a brake cleaner made for the job.
Suspension
Leaf springs
Every 6 months or 6,000 miles, look over the springs, hangers, shackles, equalizers, bolts and U-bolts. Replace springs that are cracked, broken, or have lost their arch. Replace bolts and bushings that are worn, and any shackle or hanger with an elongated hole. Check the U-bolt nuts with a torque wrench against the table in the Service Manual.
Torsion axles
The torsion suspension needs no lubrication or adjustment. Check the bracket-to-frame fasteners with a torque wrench on the same schedule, and look at the trailer on level ground: both sides should sit at the same height and the arms should point at the same angle. A side that sits low or an arm at a different angle means the axle should be inspected.
Do not weld on a torsion axle or use it as a ground for welding elsewhere on the trailer. The rubber cords inside will not survive the heat.
Storage
For storage longer than about two months:
- Grease the hubs, or check the oil level, so the bearings are fully covered.
- Lift the trailer on the frame and set it on stands to take the weight off the tires and suspension.
- Disconnect the breakaway battery and keep it charged indoors.
- Oil exposed, moving suspension points lightly. Keep oil and grease off the brake drums and linings.
Before using the trailer again, go through Before the first trip. If it sat for a year or was stored outside, have the hubs opened and the bearings inspected first.
Maintenance schedule
Use whichever comes first, the time or the miles. Hard use, heavy loads, dust and water all shorten the intervals.
| Item | What to do | Every trip | 3 months or 3,000 mi | 6 months or 6,000 mi | 12 months or 12,000 mi |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brakes | Test that they work | ● | |||
| Breakaway system | Check battery charge and switch | ● | |||
| Tire pressure | Set to the tire maker's specification, cold | ● | |||
| Hubs, oil bath | Check the oil level | ● | |||
| Brake adjustment | Adjust manual-adjust brakes (also at 200 miles when new) | ● | |||
| Wheel nuts | Torque to specification (also at 10, 25 and 50 miles when new) | ● | |||
| Tire condition | Look for cuts, wear and bulges | ● | |||
| Brake magnets | Check wear and current draw | ● | |||
| Brake controller | Check current and that it ramps smoothly | ● | |||
| Trailer brake wiring | Look for bare or frayed wire | ● | |||
| Hydraulic cylinders and lines | Check for leaks, sticking, cracks and kinks | ● | |||
| Suspension parts | Check for bending, loose fasteners and wear; torque U-bolts and bracket bolts | ● | |||
| Wheels | Look for cracks, dents and distortion | ● | |||
| Brake linings | Inspect for wear and contamination | ● | |||
| Hubs and drums | Inspect for wear and scoring | ● | |||
| Wheel bearings and races | Remove hubs, clean, inspect and repack; change the oil in oil-bath hubs | ● | |||
| Seals | Inspect for leaks; replace whenever a hub comes off | ● | |||
| Springs | Inspect for wear and loss of arch | ● | |||
| Hangers | Inspect the welds | ● |
Hubs that are greased through the spindle can be topped up between services, but still come apart on the 12-month line.
Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Check |
|---|---|
| No trailer brakes | Plug and socket, blown fuse, broken or disconnected wire, controller not powered, breakaway battery wired wrong |
| Weak brakes | Controller gain set low, brakes out of adjustment, grease or oil on linings, worn linings or magnets, wire too light for the run, poor ground |
| Brakes lock or grab | Controller gain set high, brakes adjusted too tight, rust in drums after storage, grease on linings |
| Brakes pull to one side | One side out of adjustment, contaminated linings on one side, a broken wire or bad magnet on one side, uneven tire pressure |
| Brakes drag | Adjusted too tight, weak or broken return spring, controller sending current with the pedal released, bent backing plate |
| Brakes work, then fade | Overloaded trailer, riding the brakes on a grade, brakes out of adjustment |
| Noise from a wheel | Bearing adjustment, dry or damaged bearing, worn linings, loose wheel nuts, broken brake hardware |
| Hot hub | Low or wrong lubricant, bearings too tight, dragging brake |
| Trailer sits low on one side | Uneven load, broken or sagging spring, worn shackle or hanger, torsion arm out of position |
Warranty and help
Teddy axles are warranted against defects in material and workmanship from the date of original retail purchase: torsion axles for ten years, spring axles for eight, leaf spring suspension parts for five, bearings for three and grease seals for one. The coverage depends on the axle being installed, used and maintained as this manual describes, so keep a record of the service you do. The warranty page has the summary, and the full written warranty governs.
For parts, service questions or a warranty claim, call (254) 688-0806 or write to Teddy Axle Co., 411 N Avenue G, Clifton, TX 76634.
Service record
| Date | Miles | Work done | By |
|---|---|---|---|